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TexCavy

Post   » Mon Jan 04, 2010 5:27 pm


I had a drop down side once with overlapped grids and no connectors. I used pliable wire bent around the ends of each side on the drop down grids. And it just sort of had to be unhooked to open the drop down panel.

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WindeSpirit
Sewing for a Cause

Post   » Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:26 pm


Charzard03 - please see this thread regarding your wire hay rack
https://www.guinealynx.info/forums/viewtopic.php?t=53903

I like how you made a little half wall with the little wood logs. Reminds me of those folding dressing walls, always did like those.

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Maisiesmom
Supporter in '11

Post   » Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:03 pm


Thanks, everyone for all of your suggestions. My idea was to have two stacked cages similar to the one on guineapigcages.com that lissie pointed out, except that I wasn't going to put a grid in between the cages. I would then have a problem getting into the bottom cage unless its front grids opened up somehow.

I think that I should just raise the cage (but I'm worried about the top cage being to high) or go with a bottom cage that opens in the front and has plexiglass instead of coroplast on that side.

You've helped me get over a hump. Thanks again.

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lissie

Post   » Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:57 am



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Calvin + Hobes

Post   » Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:36 am


Check out this link, Maisie. I used the photos here to base my cage on. I had the 2x4, without wheels, until this weekend when I enlarged it to a 2x5. The only thing I don't like about it is how dark the lower level is so I added lights and use light colored fleece down there to brighten it up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-3-Level-2X4-Gui ... 4a96e25e99

Is that similar to what you want to build? The front of both levels open up and to clean the lower level I just pull out the coroplast tray far enough to be able to reach across it to wipe it down.

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Maisiesmom
Supporter in '11

Post   » Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:15 am


Yes, both Weaver's older cages and the link from C&H are similar to what I want. We live in a 1 bedroom with absolutely no spare floorspace so I need to keep the same footprint. Since I also have dogs, I want the bottom cage to be off the floor and I need the storage anyway. This is great - I'm going to build coroplast kitchen areas too. You've all been a great help.

Now let's just hope that Cookie the diva and Hunk the happy actually get along...... I've found that the neutered boar / female pairing is easier than other non-breeding combinations. My vet neuters through the abdomen so there's less problem with infection and has done many, many procedures. All for a price.

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Calvin + Hobes

Post   » Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:36 am


Maisie, in the photos of that cage they use a grid at each point where 4 grids meet to prevent sagging. I tried that when I built mine but I wasn't at all happy with how unstable the cage was. The floor of the lower level was fine because of all the bracing underneath it but the floor of the upper level still had a sag to it. I ended up ripping a couple of strips of wood and running them, end to end, under the front edge and the center of the upper level. That fixed the sag and made the whole cage much more stable. Here's a link to a cage where you can see what I mean. http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/sh ... hoto/15640

Depending on the size of the squares in your grids you might be able to use the 1 3/8" x 1 3/8" wood that Lowe's & Home Depot sell. That way you'd only need to cut it to length.

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Hunybee

Post   » Sat Jan 30, 2010 4:48 pm


ok, 4 hours later and I'm almost done. I can't believe how long it took to undo all those zip ties!
Anyway, I expanded from 4 grids to 5 grids long, a 2x4 fleece area and 2x1 area for the kitchen. Image

Nikka's hide away. Image
And of course Jasper is looking for the oatmeal cookies! Image
This is the frame for the ramp. I've tied it up until I can get the coroplast finished for the second level.
I have the pieces in for the second level, but I don' t have the coroplast cut yet. The 'chirpers' wanted to get back in their cage. They were tired of floor time.

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LynnK

Post   » Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:51 pm


Hunybee that is one good looking cage there, I bet your pigs are in heaven with all that space to play in, your such a good slave. Now I'm hungry for some hosstes, Yum, Yum, Yum!

The pigs are gorgeous to!

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Hunybee

Post   » Sun Jan 31, 2010 7:45 pm


Here's the finished cage. I kept measuring wrong on the second level coroplast, good thing I started too large and had to make it smaller.
We had to get rid of the frame around the ramp. I was too afraid they would get their paws stuck in it. We have a towel covered ramp from their SuperPets cage that we started out with. Image

The second level. We found a use for the bent grid that didn't work as a hay rack either. Image

The Hidey, under the second level. Complete with fleece pillows. Image

I've said it before, I'm a dork. Almost all the fleece matches the living room.

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LynnK

Post   » Sun Jan 31, 2010 8:50 pm


Nikka and Jasper are a couple of spoiled little piggers, it looks nice all finished!

Ange1icflowers

Post   » Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:48 pm


OK. Guineapigcages.com recommends that a cage for 2 pigs be 30"x50" (not including a ramp).

My cage is 47” x 24” and includes a ramp (it also has a 15 ½” x 24” loft where I put the gigantic hidey hut now).

Here is a picture of my cage:
Image

So does this mean I need to make it bigger? Well, Time for an addition. Any ideas on how to add without taking apart and re-constructing?

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