Encouraging senior pigs to be more active
- Delaine
- Supporter in '14
Does anyone have ideas on how to encourage my two senior sows to move more. They are both over six years old. One has arthritis in her knees and the other one is blind with cataracts. They used to enjoy exploring around the kitchen on runners I put down. I put litter boxes and houses with hay along the runners until Zoe hurt her back leg jumping into one of the litter boxes. She ended up having to be confined for a few days until it healed. Anything they have to jump into has been removed. Since then I have confined them to a run but that isn't working because they just sit in the houses eating hay or napping.
Today I opened up the run and took away all the fences. I put down some runners and small step stools which got Zoe's attention and she started to explore. Since Abbey has lost her sight she has stopped exploring. She used to follow Zoe around but can't see where Zoe is going anymore.
Abbey has passed two stones since Good Friday so I need to get her moving. Zoe has passed small stones over the years so she also needs to move.
Any suggestions that have worked for you would be appreciated.
Today I opened up the run and took away all the fences. I put down some runners and small step stools which got Zoe's attention and she started to explore. Since Abbey has lost her sight she has stopped exploring. She used to follow Zoe around but can't see where Zoe is going anymore.
Abbey has passed two stones since Good Friday so I need to get her moving. Zoe has passed small stones over the years so she also needs to move.
Any suggestions that have worked for you would be appreciated.
Move hideys around. They might settle in the hidey, and if they do you can move them around again. They aren't really playing or exploring, but at least they are active.
Have you spoken to a vet? There might be a way to ease them back into exercise. Call him or her up and ask first.
Have you spoken to a vet? There might be a way to ease them back into exercise. Call him or her up and ask first.
- Delaine
- Supporter in '14
Thanks to both of you for the ideas.
jsidhu1986, the houses I have in the floor time area are maybe a little too comfortable. I used them to make Abbey feel secure but I think because they are roomy and she has a supply of hay there is no reason for her to move. So moving hideys around is a good idea and will work for Zoe but I am not sure how Abbey will handle the inconsistency.
Lynx, the girls are in a 2 x 4 C & C cage which is roomy and comfortable for two sows but not large enough to do laps. I am not sure I have room for a larger cage but your idea of encouraging her with food during floor time may work.
I actually guide Abbey with food now to help her get up on my lap. I have been giving them their supper during floor time ever since they were babies. I sit with my legs stretched out and a blanket on my lap. Abbey always jumps up on my lap and Zoe puts her front paws up. I now have to guide Abbey with food over to my lap so she knows where to jump up. She usually approaches my lap on the right side which means she turns left once she is up so she can get close to my body. The odd time she has approached my lap from the left side and once she is up she still turns left but is now heading for my feet. I have to guide her back with food to get her in the right position. It is quite adorable how she compensates for her disability.
I think tomorrow I will save some of their supper greens and pepper to guide Abbey and Zoe on an adventure. I will lay runners in a simple straight out and back course from their floor time area and cover them with small stools. Hopefully Abbey will follow me and the treats. If I do the same course every day maybe Abbey will get enough confidence to try it on her own. She is very trusting and I am sure she will follow me for food.
jsidhu1986, the houses I have in the floor time area are maybe a little too comfortable. I used them to make Abbey feel secure but I think because they are roomy and she has a supply of hay there is no reason for her to move. So moving hideys around is a good idea and will work for Zoe but I am not sure how Abbey will handle the inconsistency.
Lynx, the girls are in a 2 x 4 C & C cage which is roomy and comfortable for two sows but not large enough to do laps. I am not sure I have room for a larger cage but your idea of encouraging her with food during floor time may work.
I actually guide Abbey with food now to help her get up on my lap. I have been giving them their supper during floor time ever since they were babies. I sit with my legs stretched out and a blanket on my lap. Abbey always jumps up on my lap and Zoe puts her front paws up. I now have to guide Abbey with food over to my lap so she knows where to jump up. She usually approaches my lap on the right side which means she turns left once she is up so she can get close to my body. The odd time she has approached my lap from the left side and once she is up she still turns left but is now heading for my feet. I have to guide her back with food to get her in the right position. It is quite adorable how she compensates for her disability.
I think tomorrow I will save some of their supper greens and pepper to guide Abbey and Zoe on an adventure. I will lay runners in a simple straight out and back course from their floor time area and cover them with small stools. Hopefully Abbey will follow me and the treats. If I do the same course every day maybe Abbey will get enough confidence to try it on her own. She is very trusting and I am sure she will follow me for food.
- Delaine
- Supporter in '14
I set up a small course and lured Abbey with food. She did follow me but was so excited with the food it was more of a distraction than a help and she spent most of the time running around in circles.
What worked well for her was using two 12" fabric tunnels I made. They are made from a heavy material lined with fleece and will sort of stand open on their own. I have two so I put one up against the opening to her house and she went right in. Once she was in I put the other one in front of her. I continued doing this and I leapfrogged the tunnels to guide her around. She seemed to really enjoy the game and the fact I was playing with her. I "might" of even seen a slight pop from the old girl. She even ventured a short distance down the runners on her own to munch on some hay. It took her a little while to find her way back but she did it.
What worked well for her was using two 12" fabric tunnels I made. They are made from a heavy material lined with fleece and will sort of stand open on their own. I have two so I put one up against the opening to her house and she went right in. Once she was in I put the other one in front of her. I continued doing this and I leapfrogged the tunnels to guide her around. She seemed to really enjoy the game and the fact I was playing with her. I "might" of even seen a slight pop from the old girl. She even ventured a short distance down the runners on her own to munch on some hay. It took her a little while to find her way back but she did it.
- WindeSpirit
- Sewing for a Cause
I was going to mention tunnels was another key item I used with the blind piggies I've had. Glad you figured that out and was able to make a game of it.
Dealing with blindness isn't to hard, but you do need to figure out how they will know where they are in the cage without any piggies help, that will help a lot. Soft things!! Noses will get bumped and they do get sore after so many times, so I'd remove any plastic stools and houses, nothing hard in the cage has always been the goal I used.
This is the set up we used and it seemed to work out for every blind piggy I've had. Loungers, couches, foam pads or Corner pockets were used instead of a house and only at corners or far ends of the cage. 2 Tunnels were placed at the middle-sides of the long sides, this helps for running the cage and knowing where they are at, they can use the side of the cage to aid them and bump their shoulder against, think of it as a hand rail for them. Food, bottles, hay, and anything else in the center of the cage. Take 2 grids and make a L for the water bottles and off set it from the tunnel placement so there is bum space between. It doesn't take long for them to adapt a new set up, and if something you do completely move out of place from normal, like water if you decided to, try to make it so they only have to turn around to find it. Hope some of that helps.
One other thing that helped Snow the most in learning her run way, flannel piggy-walk. The texture is different from fleece and nails won't snag on it, just make a couple long tubes and turn them right side out, close up and lay flat in the cage like laying a toy train track, thru any tunnels too. That will get them use to it, gradually reduce the width of it till can use without.
Dealing with blindness isn't to hard, but you do need to figure out how they will know where they are in the cage without any piggies help, that will help a lot. Soft things!! Noses will get bumped and they do get sore after so many times, so I'd remove any plastic stools and houses, nothing hard in the cage has always been the goal I used.
This is the set up we used and it seemed to work out for every blind piggy I've had. Loungers, couches, foam pads or Corner pockets were used instead of a house and only at corners or far ends of the cage. 2 Tunnels were placed at the middle-sides of the long sides, this helps for running the cage and knowing where they are at, they can use the side of the cage to aid them and bump their shoulder against, think of it as a hand rail for them. Food, bottles, hay, and anything else in the center of the cage. Take 2 grids and make a L for the water bottles and off set it from the tunnel placement so there is bum space between. It doesn't take long for them to adapt a new set up, and if something you do completely move out of place from normal, like water if you decided to, try to make it so they only have to turn around to find it. Hope some of that helps.
One other thing that helped Snow the most in learning her run way, flannel piggy-walk. The texture is different from fleece and nails won't snag on it, just make a couple long tubes and turn them right side out, close up and lay flat in the cage like laying a toy train track, thru any tunnels too. That will get them use to it, gradually reduce the width of it till can use without.
- Delaine
- Supporter in '14
pigjes: A treat egg sounds interesting but I am not sure what it is. Could you please describe it.
WindeSpirit: Thank you for all the wonderful ideas. Abbey gets around her regular cage very well without bumping into thing and two of their sleeping areas contain soft cuddle cups. I am going to use your suggestions and make some changes to their floor time area. Abbey takes things slow and is very careful when exploring a new area but still bumps into things so soft items would be a good idea. I have used runners in the past. The girls are a little nervous to walk on the tile so I would lay runners in different patterns around the kitchen for them to explore on. Before Abbey became blind the girls would "go for a walk" with me and follow me around the pathways for a treat.
WindeSpirit: Thank you for all the wonderful ideas. Abbey gets around her regular cage very well without bumping into thing and two of their sleeping areas contain soft cuddle cups. I am going to use your suggestions and make some changes to their floor time area. Abbey takes things slow and is very careful when exploring a new area but still bumps into things so soft items would be a good idea. I have used runners in the past. The girls are a little nervous to walk on the tile so I would lay runners in different patterns around the kitchen for them to explore on. Before Abbey became blind the girls would "go for a walk" with me and follow me around the pathways for a treat.
- pigjes
- Cavy Comic
Since I tried all kinds of various treat eggs in the past, this one, originally made for cats, is best out of all of them. Easiest to clean, no hassle for blind pigs, dishwasher safe, does not roll fast, rolls easy enough to get treats out. I fill mine with small pieces of dried low calcium vegs.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cers ... at+egg+cat
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cers ... at+egg+cat