If this is a friend for your existing guinea pig, be sure to quarantine first. It is important that both your existing guinea pig(s) and your new guinea pig(s) are healthy.
A large cage makes all the difference. Find housing information in the GL guide and at www.guineapigcages.com .
If you are not 100% sure about the sex of the new guinea pig, see:
[Intro added by Lynx - thanks Sef1268 for the ideas!]
LINKS - Successful Introductions
- Boars Behaving Badly
Feylin's very informative guide to successful introductions, featuring three handsome boars. Wonderful descriptions and excellent photos of typical behavior. Video clips included!
- Boars Behaving Badly II
Part two of the classic thread.
- Really need urgent advice about intro issues
Beau and Nikki, a pair of rescued pigs, are successfully introduced to a herd of three; however, it takes Nikki over 24 hours to gain her confidence inside the cage.
- Introducing Two Boars - Didn't Turn Out As We'd Hoped
A 10 month old male is introduced to an older male after the loss of his cagemate.
- The Introduction of Mini to Racer and Romeo
Young Mini-Madden is introduced to a pair of 2-1/2 year old boars, Racer and Romeo. AnnSF shares photographs and video clips of her successful introduction process.
- Boar-Boar Introductions or Greetings from the Bathroom Floor
Two males, both around 4 years old, are successfully introduced after being "lifetime bachelors."
- Introduction Day - We're all Nervous
Two males are successfully introduced. Videos of typical boar behavior: Part I - Part II
- Killer Allie-Belle
A young female, 7 weeks old, is successfully introduced to a herd of three (one male, two females).
- Introductions - Fighting!
This introduction between two young females began stressfully.
- Having problems integrating new piggy
A new female is successfully introduced to another pair of females.
- Clairey's Introduction Tips: A MUST READ! - Unusual ways to shake things up!
"When I intro'd Stephen and Robert, they had my kitchen floor for about 5 hours to make sure they were properly exhausted before going into the cage. I rebuilt the cage so it was different for both pigs. I sat at the edge of the kitchen on a stool armed with a dustpan, cutlery, plastic cups and a couple of towels. If things looked to be getting too intense, I'd drop a fork or cup on the floor to make a distracting noise. I didn't speak or look at them when I did it. The towels got thrown across the space onto a counter top (imitation house eagles). It was enough to make them pause at least or sometimes huddle together in a corner. Food periodically raining from the sky when they were calm helped too. I usually feed in a bowl or a heap but I didn't want any guarding so I scattered all over the place and let them find it. I kept that up for a few weeks after they moved in together too. Oh, and I used the fleece they'd stanked during the intro to line the cage for a few days to save them starting the whole palaver again. I do recall buddy bathing them at one point but I think that was after a few days together to seal the deal.
"Sights and sounds that startle them happen every day, squirts only happen when there's a human around so I'd be concerned about making them wary of humans. I don't even know if their minds work like that, mind you. That's why I don't look at them or speak when using a distraction. So to them it's not me being mean, it's just 'the big, scary world' doing what it does ever-so-coincidentally when they're facing off!" [Tips added by Lynx]
Cavy Spirit: Introductions
Cavy Spirit has the most excellent and informative page on introducing guinea pigs. All types of "social" behaviors are covered, including what is normal, and what is considered combative. ( www.CavySpirit.com )
Quarantine - why you should do it
The importance of quarantine procedures - for both your new pig(s) and your existing one(s).